The issue of moisture in insulated assemblies is the subject of much debate. While there is no conclusive way to predict all moisture problems, especially in historic buildings, experts seem to agree on a few basic tenants. Exterior materials in insulated buildings become colder in the winter and stay wet longer following a rain event. While the wetness may not pose a problem for robust materials, it may speed the deterioration of some building materials, and lead to more frequent maintenance such as repainting of wood or repointing of masonry. Summer moisture problems are most commonly associated with excessive indoor cooling and the use of interior wall fi nishes that act as vapor retarders (paint buildup or vinyl wall coverings). Good air-sealing at the ceiling plane usually controls moisture in insulated attics.
Most problems are caused by poor moisture management, poor detailing which does not allow the building to shed water, or inadequate drainage. Therefore, a thorough assessment of the building’s ability to keep out unwanted moisture must be done before adding new insulation materials. Refer to Preservation Brief #39: Holding the Line: Controlling Unwanted Moisture in Historic Buildings for more information. Because of all the uncertainties associated with insulating walls, brick walls in particular, it may be advisable to hire a professional consultant who specializes in the many factors that affect the behavior of moisture in a building and can apply this expertise to the unique characteristics of a particular structure. Sophisticated tools such as computer modeling are useful to predict the performance of building assemblies, but they require interpretation by a skilled practitioner and the results are only as good as the data entered. It is important to remember, there are no reliable prescriptive measures to prevent moisture problems.
Vapor Retarders (Barriers): Vapor retardants are commonly used in modern construction to manage the diffusion of moisture into wall cavities and attics. For vapor retardants to work properly, however, they must be continuous, which makes their installation difficult in existing buildings, and therefore generally not recommended. Even in new construction, installation of vapor retardants is not always indicated. Formerly, the recommended treatment was to install a vapor retardant toward the heated side of the wall (toward the interior space in cold climates and toward the exterior in hot climates). DOE now recommends that if moisture moves both to the interior and exterior of a building for significant parts of the year, it is better not to use a vapor retarder at all.